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Old Hardware

JVC DT-V1710CG Repair

A month or so ago, someone was selling a broken JVC DT-V1710CG for quite cheap an hour or so from here by car. These are quite exceptional pro monitors that work with everything from 15khz up to 720p/1080i high definition signal. They also handle 24khz from old Japanese computers very well.

Road trip!

I already own one of these, but would like to own another one, and my thinking was that having a working one as reference should help with repair (it did).

When connecting it up, it was indeed quite broken. Colors are completely messed up, and the beam wasn’t firing at all times leaving empty gaps in what was being drawn. Sync appeared fine though since picture was otherwise stable.

Poltergeists live here

I started by dissasembling the entire thing to have a look at the internals for obvious things that could be busted. Overall, the condition of the internals wasn’t too bad. I had never dared dissasemble the existing one I owned, so it was also nice to learn how to do that.

Tube!
Expensive puzzle!

Something I noticed pretty quickly when taking it apart was that there was a burnt looking spot around a voltage regulator on the signal board of the machine. I made a note about this, and put the monitor back together again. Once mostly reassembled, I tried swapping signal board with my working monitor, and it became clear that this was the problematic board of the monitor, since image was fine once swapped (and the known working monitor started displaying same issues).

Swapping boards
With working signal board

I desoldered the regulator and tested it on my bench, and it did indeed seem to be busted, pushing out higher voltage than it should. Swapping it out for another one did however not fix the issue with the image.

Burned regulator
Had to use hot air for these. It’s sortof a pain to do these replacements

Scoping the HSync and VSync of the neck board showed that sync signals were indeed fine, and since the microcontroller seemed to function well with the menus, I assumed the problem would be somewhere on the area of the board housing the TA1276AN RGB processor.

Sync is fine

I initially thought that the RGB processor would be the faulty part, since the image was overall messed up and not just a single color being faulty, so I desoldered it, mounted a socket for a new one and sourced one on Ebay. This turned out to do nothing, so that was some wasted money and effort.

Desoldering these are also very awkward
Now with socket!

At this point, I wasn’t really sure which part was messed up so I scoped around a bit and noticed the crystals near the processors did not show stable oscillations. I decided to swap them and most easily accessible capacitors. In retrospect, it’s unlikely the crystals were at fault, but it was a cheap and quick swap so why not. I left some capacitors near the socket, since replacing those is very awkward (mistake).

No cap

This recap made major progress. Image was now looking great… but lacked green. Scoping showed the green output being sortof present, but looking very different and lower in signal compared to green and blue.

No green 🙁

After getting sidetracked a bit looking for bad transistors, I realized that one of the capacitors I had not swapped was connected to “G S/H” on the RGB processor. Swapping that capacitor to a new one fixed the issue, so that one was definitely messed up. Likely at least one other significant one was as well which caused the other issue.

So many colors!

With it swapped, image is now very solid! Looks like this monitor has lived a hard life, since the hour count in service menu is maxed out 🙂

Counterstopped

I’m not very experienced working on CRT’s, so this was a fun project, and now I have a very nice monitor for my test bench!

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

X68030 SCSI Adventure Part 5

This is just a small follow-up to the earlier posts, but I noticed that my Henkan Banchou was running real slow on my X68030 for some reason, so I tried swapping it for a old BlueSCSI V1 and that works much better.

I assume V2 would be the same, but this was all I had at home.

Some people seem to swear by Henkan Banchou, but it just wasn’t playing nice for me. As a fun thing, I’m trying out one of those Micro-SD card extenders now too, and routed that out the back of the unit. Makes it easy to swap cards, but realistically I don’t think I’ll do that much.

I’ll keep it like this for a bit and will then just use a regular Micro-SD card.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

Proper TTL sync signal on older X68000 models

Older X68000 models have a sync signal which is open collector, generated with a LS06 with 1000Ω pullups for the hsync/vsync signals. This doesn’t play very nice with devices such as Extron converters, and probably a bunch of other hardware.

Later models instead use a LS04 which outputs clean TTL sync, which Extrons will happily eat.

Since these are mostly pin compatible, I assume it would be fine to remove the pull-ups resistors (R26, R27) and swap in a LS04 (IC3) into my CZ-600C, so I tried it out. The only 04 IC I had at home was a SN74HC04N, but I assumed it couldn’t really hurt to use that, and it did indeed work great, and my X68000 now syncs with my Extron perfectly.

On my model, the inverters of the IC are connected to a pin of the stereoscopic 3D port, and to the “Hig Res” pin on the LED board connector. The LED works fine after the swap, and I assume the 3D port should as well, although I don’t see myself using that.

Overall I can very much recommend this mod.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

X68030 SCSI Adventure Part 4

For context, I recommend reading part 2 first.

Given what I learned from the first iteration, I made some changes and now have an internal SCSI adapter for X68030 that I’m happy with.

Available on github.

Now HDLED is supported as well without any extra circuitry. Just run a wire to the SCSI-SD Adapter.

Quick video showing the HDLED working:

I am quite happy with this now, so I don’t expect further updates on this project.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

Notes from building a Midiori Midi card for X68000

I recently put together a Midiori MIDI card for my X68000, and the process was a little bit complicated, so I thought I’d write down a quick summary if someone else is interested in doing so as well.

Making the bare PCB

This one was straight forward, nothing special here.

  • Clone the Github repo
  • Open midori.pro in latest Kicad, go the the board file and Plot the Gerbers (and drill files). I got some warnings about it updating files due to them being created in an older version, but looks like that didn’t matter much.
  • Zip up and send to board fab of your choice. I used JLCPCB.

I decided to be cheap and not use gold fingers or tapered edges.

Sourcing parts (BOM)

The non-passives are:

For passives, I already had these at home, but should be easy to find.

  • C1 – C2: 4.7uF ceramic capacitors (0805)
  • C3 – C23: 0.1uF ceramic capacitors (0805)
  • R3: 10k ohm resistor (0805)
  • R6, R9: 220 ohm resistor (0805)

Building the FPGA Bitstream

I didn’t see any bin file for the Bitstream, so I compiled my own with the provided files in the repo (gateware/) folder.

You can download it here if you do not want to build it yourself.

Otherwise the instructions follow. This was quite a few steps. I did this on Windows.

  • Install Python 3 if you don’t have it
  • Install Migen
    • In a terminal: pip install migen
  • Install yosys (OSS CAD suite)
  • Build:
    • You should now be in a terminal with [OSS CAD SUITE] as prompt prefix.
    • cd to the midori repo.
    • Run: python3 gateware\midiori.py sim
    • then if no errors: python3 gateware\midiori.py build
    • This will generate a top.bin file in build/ . This is what you need to SPI flash to U2.
    • Take this file and pad it at the end with 0xFF bytes (I used a hexeditor) until it is 1048576 (0x100000) bytes long, which the Flash expects.

Write FPGA bitstream to Flash

If you have a favorite SPI Flash setup to use… then do that. Write top.bin from above to the AT25SF081B.

I used a Tigard device together with a sketchy adapter I made from stuff I had at home, see pic below. You might wanna get something nicer.

Then on OSX, I installed “flashrom” through homebrew by running brew install flashrom.

Then to write the file to the FPGA, I connected things and ran

flashrom -p ft2232_spi:type=2232H,port=B,divisor=4 -w top.bin

Soldering

Not much to say here. The FPGA has tiny pitch, so be careful and use magnification. At least on the revision (2.2 2020) that I soldered, U2 is oriented the other direction than other IC’s, so check for that.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

X68030 SCSI Adventure Part 3

Well… I figured out what the SCSI ID switch on the back of X68030 does, and uuuuuh.

I was a bit confused what the idea of that was, since there’s a SCSI_ID setting in SWITCH.X already which seems to select the SCSI ID of the computer.

So here’s the relevant part of the schematic of the SCSI IO board.

So it’s connected to pin 1-3 on the HC connector… what does that map to on the motherboard?

Absolutely nothing apparently. Pretty weird. Turns out the switch is just chilling there, not hooked up to anything then.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

X68030 SCSI Adventure Part 2

Since I wanted to be able to have a SCSI to Flash adapter connected internally to my device, I had to make some adjustments to the hardware.

Hardware

I wanted to hook up an internal SCSI HDD to my X68030, and decided that instead of trying to manufacture a cable for this, I’d just make a quick replacement SCSI IO board with the proper connector. This board has the same configuration of resistors and capacitors as the original board, but lacks the external connector. It has headers for setting the SCSI ID, but it’s fine to leave this unpopulated and just use SCSI ID=0 for the X68030.

SCSI Device setup

Setup is quite minimal.

There shouldn’t really be any settings needed to be changed in SWITCH.X. Leaving device boot as STD works, and either 0 or 7 as SCSI_ID works fine.

I had a spare Henkan Banchou 変換番長 Pro from a previous project that I decided to use. I designed and 3D printed a bracket (STL is at end of this post) for this to fit in the top right of the X68030, since that’s where the internal HDD is in CZ-510C.

I loaded this with the SxSI-SCSI HDD Image v3.01 from NFG Games forum, and things pretty much just worked right away, once I connected the cable.

Power is supplied using the flat cable (as long as the connected device doesn’t require more than 1A).

Downloads

Internal SCSI board

KiCad project and Gerbers for this can be found at https://github.com/buffis/x68030_scsi_adapter. This also has the BOM.

There’s minor layout changes to the one in pictures above, but no change in functionality.

Henkan Banchou mounting bracket

Also available on Github under https://github.com/buffis/x68030_scsi_adapter/tree/main/mounting_bracket.

Standard STL file that any 3D printer should be able to print.

Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

X68030 SCSI Adventure Part 1

I finally got SCSI working on my X68030 CZ-500C, so thought I’d do a writeup on what I learned. It will be in two parts, where the first one covers the default CZ-500C SCSI support, and the second part covers a new adapter I made for using internal SCSI devices.

CZ-500C SCSI Internals

X68030 has proper SCSI support, not just SASI as some of the earlier X68000 models. CZ-500C does however lack cabling for internal SCSI HDD (which CZ-510C has). The internal connector used from the main board to the SCSI IO board is a non-standard 40-pin flat cable. The schematic for CZ-500C including the SCSI board can be found here.

The IO board itself is quite simple. Other than the connectors and ID switch, it just has a terminating 33oΩ/220Ω resistor network, a bunch of capacitors and a 1A fuse for the external power delivery. It is mounted on top of another IO board for the external floppy, and easy to remove with two screws.

If the SCSI board is not connected to the bottom PCB of the X68030, the system will not start.

External connectors

The external SCSI connector is a “Micro Centronics” connector, which is hard to find proper cabling for. It seems like the Japanese term for these are アンフェノールハーフ50 (Amphenol half 50) or アンフェノールハーフピッチ50 (Amphenol half pitch 50).

When looking for adapters to full-size Centronics, you can search for that in combination with アンフェノールフル 50 (Amphenol full 50), and look for a cable with a male Micro connector that goes to a female full size connector. This can then be hooked up to a Centronics Bluescsi device. Example from an Mercari auction:

There is a SCSI ID switch on the back of the unit. This doesn’t seem to be related to the external device, but rather the SCSI ID that the X68030 uses. Weirdly there’s also an option for this in SWITCH.X so I’m not really sure which option has priority. The compact version of X68030 does not have this switch, nor does other X68000 models as far as I can tell.


Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

NEC PC-9801-86 Recap notes

Did a quick recap of my new PC-9801-86, and thought I’d add some notes to simplify for other people. There’s an earlier Japanese caplist here that I used as a base, but they used THT caps for the recap which I didn’t want to do.

Note that C33 and C34 are bipolar caps. The mouser links below link to the proper ones, but in my actual recap I just used polarized capacitors which seems to work as well (the Japanese link above did this too). It should be better to use bipolar caps though, so I might swap them later.

Purchase list

MouserAmount
710-8650904430058
710-8650603430033
710-8652306400041
710-8650903430055
710-8652503400032
710-86523044000132
710-8650606400012
647-UWP1C4R7MCL2

Cap list

PositionCapacitanceVoltageDiameterMouserNote
C133μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C233μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C333μF16V6.3mm710-865060343003
C40.47μF50V4mm710-865230640004
C533μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C733μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C847μF16V6.3mm710-865090343005
C910μF16V4mm710-865250340003
C104.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C114.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C124.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C1333μF16V6.3mm710-865060343003
C144.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C154.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C164.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C174.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C184.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C194.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C204.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C214.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C224.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C234.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C244.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C254.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C264.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C274.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C284.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C294.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C301μF50V4mm710-865060640001
C311μF50V4mm710-865060640001
C324.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C334.7μF16V4mm647-UWP1C4R7MCLBipolar cap
C344.7μF16V4mm647-UWP1C4R7MCLBipolar cap
C3533μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C3633μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C3747μF16V6.3mm710-865090343005
C3847μF16V6.3mm710-865090343005
C394.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C404.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C424.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C434.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C444.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C4547μF16V6.3mm710-865090343005
C4647μF16V6.3mm710-865090343005
C4810μF16V4mm710-865250340003
C504.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C514.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C534.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C5433μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C5533μF25V6.3mm710-865090443005
C564.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C574.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C584.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C594.7μF25V4mm710-865230440001
C6033μF16V6.3mm710-865060343003
Categories
Old Hardware Retro Computers

FM Towns SCSI boot guide

Had some issues getting SCSI CD-ROM booting working on my FM Towns tower, so thought I’d just do a quick step-by-step writeup on what I did.

The source of this is https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=6821.0 but it’s very light on info, and took me a while to figure out how to get this on a floppy from a modern computer.

Hardware needed:

  • 3.5″ floppy drive + floppy
  • Greaseweazle setup
  • SCSI CD-ROM + cable for connecting it to back of FM Towns

Software needed:

Making the floppy

This is honestly the only tricky part, and the main thing is that the disk images are incompatible with greaseweazle as far as I can tell, so first you need to open Virtual Floppy Image Converter and convert it to a FM Towns compatible format.

  • Select “D88 format” as format and click the open icon to the left
  • Select FDMINI.BIN
  • This will then spit out a D88 image.

Connect your Greaseweazle over USB. Hook up the 3.5″ floppy drive to it. Use a twisted floppy cable. Run:

gw write fdimage.d88 --drive=A

This will produce the floppy you need

Booting

Connect the SCSI CD-ROM drive to the SCSI port at the back of the FM Towns and put a CD in it. Use the boot floppy and it will automatically boot from the external CD-ROM.

Works great!

Look at this chunky CD-ROM. So big and cool.