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Old Hardware Retro Computers

CZ-6MO1 for X68000 – Part 2 – Restoration

In the earlier post I wrote a little about the CZ-6MO1 Magneto Optical drive I bought for Sharp X68000.

Unfortunately, after some use, it smelled of dead capacitors (fishy and bad), and I was getting inconsistent results with reading disks.

Since this thing is old, I opened it up and did a restoration. This post covers this with some pics, and then a cap-list towards the end.

Opening the device

With the top off, the drive looks like this. The PSU is facing the camera and behind it is the MO assembly sandwiched between two PCBs, with another two sitting behind it near the back fan.

PSU is fairly beefy. 3A on 12V and 3A on 5V.

Popping off top reveals back of one of the “Analog PWB”. TONS of variable resistors, which I guess are used for fine tuning this thing. There’s some flux residue ot something, but nothing here looks very bad.

Popping off the rear part with connectors and fans reveals the rear boards, which are stacked on top of eachother with a connector.

Removing top PCB requires being very careful, since it has a flex table which is kindof short. Moving it like below, and then unclipping the connector worked well.

Top board is kindof dirty, and some caps look iffy.

Now the main MO drive assembly can be removed and flipped upside down. Removing the cover there reveals another PCB

Apparently this is the digital power board. This looks clean and no electrolytic capacitors to worry about.

At this point, things were as much dissassembled as I dared to go. The Drive itself could be opened up further, but I have no experience servicing MO-drives, so I thought it best to leave it as is for now unless I notice issues there.

Power supply opened up easily and the fishy smell was strong there.

Bulging and leaking caps, bad times. Needed some real work.

Recapping

The only restoration I did on this thing as this point was a good cleaning and a full recap of all the boards. This turned out to be sufficient.

The caplist I made is below. Measurements are not exact, but get something close enough and it should be fine. Digikey links are what I used. For some, the voltage rating is upped a bit compared to the board ones.

ANALOG PWB

CapuFVDia (mm)H (mm)Type
C4094.7166.55.6THT PolarDigikey
C903100258.27.8THT PolarDigikey
C901100258.27.8THT PolarDigikey
C9053.32556SMD BipolarDigikey

UNLABELED REAR BOARD

CapuFVDia (mm)H (mm)Type
C201100166.57.5THT PolarDigikey

HAIMEN PWB

CapuFVDia (mm)H (mm)Type
C60333256.36THT PolarDigikey
C60433256.36THT PolarDigikey
C610100257.27.5THT PolarDigikey

PSU

CapuFVDia (mm)H (mm)Type
C522020022.225THT PolarDigikey
C622020022.225THT PolarDigikey
C43-13306313.525THT PolarDigikey
C43-23306313.525THT PolarDigikey
C23-14705013.525THT PolarDigikey
C23-24705013.525THT PolarDigikey
C25-122001013.525THT PolarDigikey
C25-222001013.525THT PolarDigikey
C45-110002513.525THT PolarDigikey
C45-210002513.525THT PolarDigikey
C264.750512THT PolarDigikey
C324.750512THT PolarDigikey
C464.750512THT PolarDigikey
C524.750512THT PolarDigikey

Result

Works great!

Interestingly, after recap I got these Fujifilm disks to ALMOST work too, which I had zero success with before recapping. They will initialize fine, but they seem slower and make a lot more noise when reading/writing compared to the Sony ones. After copying some files to it, the system will no longer write more data. Not sure if that’s an issue with my unit or if these are incompatible in some way.

I will just use the Sony EDM-1DA1 ones in the future due to this, since they work great!

Basically, maybe don’t buy these for it:

Things turned out great otherwise!